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Milan Fashion Week Italian Giants Strike Out On Rebellion

At “Big Four” fashion weeks, Milan has long claimed a legacy, but often pales in comparison to the youthful spirit of London, the high-octane energy of New York, or the grandeur of Paris. However, there was a sign of something new on the air this season — and it smelled like rebellion.

Architect and furniture designer Gaetano Paes

While there were no clear political statements on the runway in the lead-up to Sunday’s general election, the country’s creative class may be buoyed by the emerging reality of a far-right party on the cusp of victory. Bottega Veneta’s lively set building on Saturday night Renowned Italian architect and furniture designer Gaetano Pace issued a candid statement ahead of the label’s show: “This space is an homage to diversity,” he said of its cast-resin runway and the hundreds of bespoke, multicolored chairs.

Bottega Veneta Show

“It’s about human beings; we’re totally different. Those who say we’re all the same — f**k them! We’re all different and that’s our defining quality — otherwise, we’re just a copy. Bottega A few days before the Veneta show, Diesel attempted to democratize his normally exclusive program by breaking tradition and inviting the public to attend the show, which was attended by 5,000 people, 3,000 of whom were non-industry guests. .

, the brand itself has been accused of widespread racism

In a devil-may-care-move, Dolce & Gabbana’s self-referential video of Bolsey, Kim Kardashian eating a plate of spaghetti, was outrageous to say the least. As used, in November 2018, the brand found itself facing widespread accusations of racism. The promotional video in question, which featured an Asian model struggling to eat pasta with chopsticks, received such a backlash that the brand forced to cancel its planned show in China.

Four years later, and replayed the familiar scene

On the opening of the house’s Spring-Summer 2023 show – with some important edits. Before the model walked out, a black and white film showed Kardashian tucking into a plate of spaghetti with a smile on her face. Was it a “sorry not sorry” moment or an attempt to poke fun at the brand’s past missteps? We’ll probably never know, but it was a rare acknowledgment of a controversy the label has largely remained silent about.

Elsewhere, Designer Debuts at Etro, Missoni, Ferragamo and Bali

Rebellion involves risk and not all risk paid off. From the obnoxiously delayed show to the many models who fell victim to slip-and-slides on Roberto Cavalli’s runway, the wheels came off on several occasions, but there was still plenty to celebrate throughout the week.

Belle of the ball: Bottega Veneta

Matthew Blazzi’s second collection for Bottega Veneta was the undisputed win of the week. Combining women’s clothing and men’s clothing, the elegant, thoughtful collection filled with nearly everything you could need in a wardrobe, from jeans and tanks to suits and gorgeous cocktail dresses. Replicating a technical trick he played with his first collection for the first time, Blazy put Kate Moss in simple jeans and flannel shirts that actually leather printed. The final look of the show, a dazzling turquoise, heavily ruffled dress, cheered the crowd before the models returned for the traditional parade.

Gothic deities in Versace

Another notable highlight given by Donatella Versace. “I’ve always loved a rebel,” she said in her show notes. “A woman who is confident, smart, and a little bit of a diva.” The Moody Collection was a goth girl’s dream, in purple and black, featuring lingerie-inspired mini dresses, ruffled leather, and lace-detailed veils. Finally in a subversive move, Paris Hilton stormed the runway in sequined fuchsia while channeling a rebellious Barbie look and swagger.

Fendi. I am cool

Fashion’s obsession with Y2K is still going strong and Kim Jones’ latest collection — Gen Z-friendly cargo trousers in leather and silk, featuring fluffy platform heels in highlighter green and leather-meshed fabric — only adds to the impression. and strengthens. That said, a solid base layer of neutral tones offered plenty of options for women looking for more classic, adult styles.

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