Simon Porte Jacquemus known for mining extravagant locations for his off-calendar fashion shows—a lavender field in the south of France, a beach in Hawaii—and this season he lured the fashion pack into a real mine.
An Ethereal Demonstration Against the Moonscape
The designer used his cinematic eye to create an ethereal display against the moonscape of the salt flats in the Camargue area. With dramatic relief and bright lights, it was a selfie’s dream.
Jacquemus said after the show
“I started working on the collection, with a passion to restart from nothing, like a white page,” Jacquemus said after the show. There were two reference papers – hence the title of the collection, Le Papier – and sculptor Alberto Giacometti, tracked in full as the models were silhouetted crossing a perfectly white landscape.
business strategy really inspiring
Guests including Vincent Cassel, model Amelia Gray and the impressive Cindy Kimberly and Donnett Cooley made the trek to second place. The vast white field was surrounded by mineral mountains and the extra-long benches on which the guests sat were hand-carved with salt. Victoria Beckham almost stole the show when she arrived minutes before the start of the show. “I don’t go to many shows at all but I jumped at the chance. I have a lot of respect for what she has created, I think her business strategy is really inspiring,” she told WWD.
“I’m such a fan of watching shows on Instagram,
It’s really incredible to be here. I feel like I’m in a strange dream. I mean it’s beautiful,” she said, calling Jacquemus “the epitome of a young, cool, French designer.”
The two met for the first time after the show and immediately started laughing. Jacquemus said he was screaming in his studio when he accepted the invitation, and that morning a friend of his was wearing a Spice Girls T-shirt, adding another layer to the day. “We have to make you wear a Spice Girls T-shirt,” Beckham joked. “We’ll be putting one in the next collection for you.
As Strong Design Notes “Uncomfortable
Jacquemus said the bright pinks and candy colors of his recent collection began to feel “uncomfortable” as an overpowering design note, so he wanted to go back to an earthy palette. Her recent engagement was another key inspiration for the collection, which took references to the bride quite literally but lightly with a long veil, tulle skirt and strings of flowers hanging from the ears.
The 70-look collection appeared primarily in a white, cream, beige, sage and brown color palette. I think that’s why I got back into myself, because I was very comfortable and super zen,” he said. There was a noticeable quality to the show, with the models appearing almost like a mirage on the top of a salt hill At a distance, small figures slowly approach the audience to the unpleasant sounds of synthetic music.
Strategic cutouts or a teeny-tiny nipple-covered bikini top
Jacquemus has always had a habit of making a statement with shape, and here he used tulle to create body-con draping on the fabric, in his white but not in his softness. Other looks were her signature lingerie style, with strategic cutouts highlighting the body or a teeny-tiny nipple-covered bikini top.
Allowed to focus on creative full-time
The designer has built most of her business on hit bags, and this season she’s paraded a slew of puffy styles. The main RTW looks were an ’80s-style blazer with wide shoulders and a looped belt, an off-the-shoulder jacket with a wing-like construction, and a cloud-like puffer jacket. Jacquemus said the business is booming . The recent hire of Bastien Daguzan as Chief Executive Officer allows the independent designer to focus on the creative full-time. On the subject of his upcoming collaboration with Nike, he said that while he is open to other partnerships, he doesn’t want the collaboration to be a crutch for business.